Photographed, Brasstown, NC
Scanned, restoration: Raleigh, NC
Post written: Raleigh, NC
September, 1969 – June, 1974
Winter, 2022
January 28, 2022
Blogger’s Note
This post contains two versions of the same story. You can start the video below and hear the same words, see the same pictures as you would if you decided to read my traditional post below. If you decide to read this post you can listen to the background audio track from the video by clicking on the audio button below the video. This music is the classical guitar work of Don Goldenbaum which he played at Robin’s and my wedding.
Watch the video:
Video Link: Click on the arrow to start the recording. You can watch full screen by clicking on the small box in the lower right hand corner.
Or listen to the classical guitar music of Don Goldenbaum as you read.
Audio Link: Click on the arrow to start the recording.
Or simply read the story in the usual way.
Our Brasstown neighbors
We worried. We fretted. Then in mid-July, we learned that the Clay County Schools in Western North Carolina hired both of us!!! John Ramsey, the director of the John C. Campbell Folk School in Brasstown, NC, had encouraged us to apply to the county schools and helped ensure that our applications were reviewed. Hayesville Elementary School principal Bobby Birch interviewed us in early June, questioning us carefully about our intentions – were we expecting to “educate” the county residents or did we want to actually live in Clay County? Drawing on our experiences in Little Milligan, we passed the interview! For years our new Clay County neighbors would help us continue our story.
On August 20, 1969 we loaded a U-Haul trailer, including my book collection of over 1,000 books! We climbed into our old Land Rover, and drove to Brasstown. On this map my arrow is straight but the road wasn’t! Today it’s 186 miles – an easy 4 hour drive. But in 1969, old Hwy 64W was a mountainous, narrow, twisting all-day drive that terrified us as the heavy trailer pushed our jeep down the steep winding road. The brakes held and we arrived at the Folk School where we rented a small farmhouse. We’d found our new home.
Perhaps this next map gives a better idea of the remote mountain region Robin and I would call home. We lived in Brasstown, population 50. Hayesville, population 600, was nearly 30 minutes drive away on the old hwy 64. There was no direct road – we had to drive through Warne to get to our school in Hayesville. Murphy, population 1600 – the westernmost city in North Carolina – was our regional center. Our friend Dave Peters wrote the song “Two Hours from Anywhere” to highlight our remote location. Still, it became Home.
Our neighbors built our story
The mountains of Clay County are beautiful. Like the mountains of East Tennessee. This is the view from near Standing Indian mountaintop, at 5500 feet, on the border of Clay County.
For over 20 years we would experience the awe of these mountains and the communities that dotted the valleys. But it was our neighbors who made these mountains our home. Each neighbor offered us their story and in doing so, helped us build our own story.
Dub and Murray Martin
Dub and Murray were our closest neighbors. Their farm adjoined our home at the Folk School. Dub taught me to grill steaks of his homegrown, grass-fed beef with pats of butter on top. He taught me about moonshine and how to homebrew beer. Murray taught woodcarving at the Folk School. She guided Robin toward weaving using wool dyed with native plants. She helped Robin appreciate the local culture and folklore.
Dub also guided me up the mountain to his TV antenna where he showed me how to setup, connect, and oriente the antenna for best results. The proof was immediately shown on his little battery operated B&W TV set. I borrowed that little set several times.
The Wilsons, Ellie and Monroe
The Wilsons lived in downtown Brasstown – their farm was behind the Post Office where Monroe was postmaster. In this family portrait, Florence is seated on the left, then Monroe is in the easy chair on the left behind Florence. Danny, the eldest son is standing in the center; Ann is seated on the floor. John, seated on the right front was in Robin’s first 7th grade class. Ellie is seated on the right behind John.
Ellie’s friendly voice was everything to us. She patiently explained so many events and helped us deal with so many school issues. I still treasure a signed copy of her book, My Journey to Appalachia. It is one of my prized possessions.
I spent hours in Monroe’s shop learning about wood. Gentle patience was his teaching style. I’d bring projects to him after I’d built them and he’d show me how to varnish or lacquer each properly.
I learned to turn bowls under his tutelage – though I was never able to learn to sharpen his chisels properly. He had to do that task for me!
This is the only bowl I turned on his lathe that I still have. Occasionally I wonder what happened to the others, l but I know this was my best.
Joe and Ginny Kiraly
Joe and Ginny were retirees who lived a bit out of town. Special people. They took us under their wings. We played cards, ate meals, and hiked with them. Joe was a retired landscape architect who knew the common and Latin name of every plant we ever saw. Robin learned all those names from him. Ginny and I ignored Joe and Robin and made up our own names – all yellow flowers were “butter dishes!”
Joe was a master gardener and taught Robin the basics. But he gave us so many of his home-grown vegetables that she really didn’t need to grow her own garden. She just liked to do so. Again, like I did with Monroe, I spent hours in Joe’s shop learning to properly use tools – especially a radial arm saw which became the cornerstone of my own shop.
“Downtown” Brasstown
Downtown Brasstown is a wonderful place. Back then we had two gas stations / general stores plus a third long-abandoned store. All three were great places for just hanging around. Here are two townies, hanging around the abandoned store on an Easter Sunday!
And here’s another hanging arounder in one of my favorite pictures ever!
The dahlia lady
Not far out of town was another favorite place – the dahlia lady‘s small farm. Just as I never became the master craftsman of my woodworking tutors, Robin tried but never did learn to grow dahlias.
But she loved them – so she bought them here! Often lots of them.
Bass and David Hyatt
Perhaps Bass and David deserve an entire post – so many stories, so many memories.
I’ll start with David – a delightful rascal if there ever was one. David delivered the mail in the entire Brasstown district. Sometimes, while we were teaching, he’d simply open our door and walk in. He was especially interested in Robin’s cookies and was fond of telling her that he preferred her chocolate chip cookies to her oatmeal cookies – he advised her that she should make the chocolate chip ones more often. And more of them each time so he could take a handfull of them along on his mail route. He had a sweet-tooth!
Bass was also free with advice. He once walked in and found me washing the dishes. He hemmed and hawed around and then told me, “It’s too late. There’s no hope for you!”
Bass and David raised pigs. One day at dinner Robin remarked that his pig farm smelled and he was polluting her air. Bass looked her in the eye and said, “Well, your cigarettes are polluting my air.” Robin looked at him, at her cigarette, and snuffed the thing out. She instantly stopped smoking completely – cold turkey. Never smoked another one. And spent the next several years gently prodding me until I was finally able to kick the habit.
Bass and David both lived in modern homes. Mom and dad still lived in the old homestead where Bass and David were raised. Here’s David in front of the Hyatt homestead.
Bass and David did their farming on the family land. Raised “white-faced” Hereford cattle and pigs. Here are some of the smelly old pigs.
Here’s the pig barn and outbuilding. The old guy pushing the wheelbarrow? That’s old man Bass, age 79. It’s David playing with the dog while his dad works on their farm!
Here’s old man Bass. Into his 80’s, he could work me into the ground. I know – I worked as a farmhand for almost two weeks while Bass the Younger was in the hospital. I fed the cattle, not on horseback as I imagined, but using a tractor with a front-end loader. I checked and fed the hogs, and mended fences in the rain. All under the supervision of Bass the Elder!
The elder Green
Here’s another elder cut from the same cloth. Dale Green. We’ll meet him in a later post, but I wanted to show a second example of the guys I’m trying to emulate as I turn 78.
Allen Stevenson
I believe Robin and I were the first of the outsiders to move into the tri-county area centered around Murphy. But soon we were followed by numerous others. Here is Allen, who moved to a farm in Graham County. He started an educational program for inner-city students from Atlanta on that farm.
Bob and Gretchen Fink
And here are Bob and Gretchen Fink working on the house they built nearby.
In all, the western mountains of North Carolina were a rich and vibrant place.
Oh my, Barry! You have out done yourself with this post. Hearing your voice adds so much charm. I arrived in NC in 1972 and to Marble in 1973. Your stories make that time so fresh and alive. Thank you for sharing! You deserve an A plus in your class
Thanks Carol! It is so much fun to see you now that we are both in the Raleigh area. We’re planning to come over soon …
Barry, you’ve done it! You capture the culture and the people here, as I remember the early years. I arrived in 1974, a bit later than you. I love hearing about the farm chores and the colorful people, especially the Wilson’s, Fink’s, and Hayatt’s. Your drive from Brasstown to Hayesville on what we now call old 64 was beautiful, and oh so slow. I remember you and Robin being in the core of my new friends in my early years here. It’s a treasure to remember.
Hi Mary – Thank you for your kind comments. I have so many memories of us in those early years as so many of us moved into the area. And by the way – I’ve wanted to take one of your workshops because I know it would help my writing. Perhap one day soon …
I so enjoyed reading about your experiences in the Brasstown area. I lived in the Murphy area and life was hard, but simpler then. Neighbors were kind, thoughtful and sharing. Everybody knew everybody. Days gone by.
Wow Kathy! Wonderful to hear from you – It’s been a long time since I’ve been in Brasstown but I still remember those early days. We were “city folk” but people were wonderful to us back then.
It is good to see you back. I have one of your bowls. If I am near the date of your birthday—-78? —can’t be—–but then, I will be 87 in Oct—–Happy Birthday.
Hi Karen! Thanks! It’s always nice to hear from you. There will be more stories – I’m just slow these days. I’m glad you have one of my bowls. Yes, I turned 78 in January. I have the same birthday as Sandy! (Although I’m sure she’s much younger than I am.) I do remember your birthday party a few years ago – I believe they hid your age on the cake by writing it in computer code! I’m hoping we can come and visit you again someday.
Enjoyed remembering
Ginny and I arrived in 1976 and have many fond memories. Barry, you were always amazed by all the stuff I took on our white water adventures. Great fun!!!
Love, peace and joy
Emerson!! Thanks! You know I still have pictures! Not of you and the mount of stuff you packed into your canoe, but of you and Ginny in those great years. (Don’t ask me to find the pictures – I have about 120,000 digital images plus about 10,000 scanned B&W and color pictures. They are pretty well organized by year but searching for something specific is hard.) What I can retrieve are so many wonderful memories; I owe you double thanks. First for the memories and second for your great comments.
Peace! – barry
Barry, I very much enjoyed your video as it brought back many special memories. I don’t know if we ever met (Your name sounds familiar) but I did know some of those wonderful people highlighted ian your video. I lived in Andrew’s from 1981 through 1984. Those were special years I shall never forget.
Hi Phil – Thanks for the nice affirmation of my work. I also don’t remember you but I’m pretty sure our paths crossed since we knew some of the same people. It was (is!) a very small community. And you’re right – they were very special years. We were there from 1969 until 1990 and those years have influenced everything I’ve done since.
Thanks, – barry
We got to Murphy in 76 and It was fun to pull out the memories from those days. So many of the people you remembered were folks we enjoyed meeting as well. Those years have flown by way too fast.
Thanks for all the work you put into these posts, they are a treasure.
Bill – Thanks! I’m having a wonderful trip down memory lane looking at my old pictures and writing each post. And my teenage grandkids seem to enjoy them too!
Bill, enjoyed reading your post. Barry has done all of us a very good turn bringing us together!
Emerson! I keep thinking “Raleigh isn’t that far away! Perhaps I can arrange a visit.” Hopefully over the summer … – barry
Namaste 🙏
Barry, Ginny and I love the idea of a visit!
However, this pandemic, covid, is a real inconvenience!!!
Ginny and I remain isolated in our own private paradise, Panther Brook. (You can see pictures on my website, pantherbrook.com. You will also find two books there that have been downloaded in over sixty countries.)
I no longer teach in person meditation and yoga classes nor hold silent retreats. No one has been in our home in over two years nor have we eaten in a restaurant.
And so,, my dear friend, we will not invite you to visit.
This virus in a real inconvenience!!!
The good news is that neither of us have caught this virus!
Emerson and Ginny – Yes, right now my hope for a visit is just a dream. I’m hopeful – maybe not this summer, but someday. We’ve been pretty careful too. I don’t want to jinx us but so far neither of us have had covid while our daughters and some friends have. I just got my second booster – I think they have helped.
So someday. Stay safe! – b
Hello old friend, this came up on our Facebook and I had to say Hello to you. I have fond memories of you and Robin. I am now eighty eight and still have my memories also, most of my mind as well. Our son Dave and wife June are neighbors and have taken over our farm with West Tubing on Brasstown Creek. Our son Gil and wife Kim have two sons and live here on the lake in the summer and on the Gulf in Naples, Florida in the winter. Gil is retired as COO of Delta Airlines, still playing with cars and works from home as COO of Cruise. The grandsons are both the apples of our eyes. The next time you come this way, we would love to see you and hear more about Megan and her children. Mary Kathryn
Wow! Wonderfull to hear from you. I hope your note is because you’ve read my posts in “Stories of Long Ago.” If not, please check
https://www.fbarrywheeler.net/we-got-jobs/ and
https://www.fbarrywheeler.net/we-built-our-home/
I hope these stories tell you how much we loved Hayesville and how many wonderful memories of have of you and everyone there. Yes, the next time I’m in Hayesville (I visit Harry Baughn!), I’ll call! – barry