Nuuk, Greenland
Pictures, November 4, 2019
Post, February 3, 2020
Qoornoq died as Nuuk modernized . . .
Qoornoq was a small fishing village only 30 miles up the fjord from Nuuk. Perhaps 30 houses, a church, a store.
Cod fishing was Qoornoq’s backbone – a cod processing plant and a fish drying plant shipped the catch to Nuuk and beyond. Subsistence hunting of caribou and seal added support to the Inuit way of life. Blue was the color of fish factories. Drying sheds, to the right, appear unpainted.
Change is hard, destructive . . .
Denmark decided to modernize Greenland by assimilation. Among many other steps, modern fishing vessels and methods were introduced. Overfished, the cod disappeared. Qoornoq was the old Greenland. The factory was closed, the power turned off, and the Inuits were relocated to apartment blocks in larger designated towns. Denmark planned their lives as urbanized wage earners. The last resident was moved in 1972 and the settlement died.
Now Qoornoq is a tourist attraction. I learned its story from the water taxi captain who brought us up the fjord for our visit.
We passed a modern fishing vessel . . .
Abandoned houses appear insignificant in the distance – the cold harsh surroundings make the village appear remote.
Closer, we see the church. White not red, as if to show me that the traditions are changing.
The water taxi and captain stay in the harbor as we explore the abandoned village.
Contrast . . .
Many of the small, colorful houses are now being maintained for the summer tourist and vacation crowd. In November they are empty.
The Inuit are gone, but evidence of their lives remains.
The church bell can still be rung.
But we can’t use the church outhouse.
The house is locked but we can see the old teapot on a gas stove.
There are no roads, just paths between homes and the fjord.
The rocks. The cold. The isolation. As tourists we can still sense life in the Inuit tradition.
As we leave, we can ponder . . .
For years, Greenland has had the highest suicide rate in the world. Particularly young men 15 to 29 choose to die. Perhaps not large in absolute numbers, but in a small population a few loom large.
In Qoornoq we can feel the difficulty of the traditional Inuit way of life. We’ve seen their lives in Nuuk. The apartment blocks have water, electricity, light, modern appliances. Many thrive. But some die.
Why?
This is so informative and also very disturbing. Who determines whether a culture and way of life has value? Seems like it ought to be those who live it but sadly history has shown that this is rarely the case. Thank you for shedding light on this mostly untold story.
Hi Jamie – This was a hard post to write because I wanted prospective not condemnation. My understanding has changed over the past 70 years yet I struggle to describe so that we can find answers to questions we never asked.
How sad. A vivid picture.
Sandy – Yes it’s sad. I’ve struggled to understand – but this began in the 1953 with a new constitution for Denmark and Continued through the 70’s and I don’t know how to discuss it in those terms. A step forward for the first half of the twentieth century, but …
Well it seems to me you find a clear and stark narrative with your images and story.
Great photos Barry! A difficult story to tell but one common to indigenous peoples throughout the world.
Your next documentary excursion should be Chiapas, Mexico and tell the story of the
Zapatistas.
Don
Wow Don! I need at least one more trip to Greenland to really reach at least one of the small Inuit communities still remaining. That’s next. Want to come?
Beautiful descriptions Barry! I feel like I am reading National Geographic. A sad story though!
Thanks Carol Lynn. It has been difficult for me to wrap my mind around. In many ways they were well meaning – a nice apartment and a job versus a primitive home and subsistence hunting and fishing. But we lack understanding and empathy so even those who “succeeded” suffered.
You have a unique and compelling style and your photos invite us to search them for detail. Very effective. I am shocked Denmark forced the Inuit to abandon their lifestyle, not far from whites’ treatment of indigenous North Americans. For a look at racism against Kamchatka Inuit, I recommend Disappearing Earth, a novel.
Thanks Nancy! I found the book on the Kindle and downloaded so I can read it in the next few weeks.
So sad. Another example of Western people thinking their way of life is the best and only way. As we become more and more technological, it seems like mankind is becoming more lonely and unhappy…unless you happen to be white and wealthy! Great story as usual, Barry.
Barry-
Well said!
Thanks Dan. I’m still struggling to understand why.
An all too common tragic history. Thanks for sharing.
And we’re still repeating it. Someday soon I’m going to come for a visit and we can talk. Thanks!
Very sad. It could be the history of many locations as time has passed–considered progress, but sometimes I wonter.
Barry,
I was first going to suggest that the traditional Inuit be allowed to choose what kind of lifestyle they wish to live but that’s not what happens with assimilation, especially if the fish are gone. Western ideals tend to have the unintended consequence of destroying native cultures. I think that greed has a large part to play.
Great to hear from you!!!!
Even with the fish, Denmark decided on a policy of assimilation thinking it was best for everyone. But have we learned?
Do you ever think the back to basics, off the grid, homesteading crowd will ever re- populate this beautiful place? Certainly hope not. Thanks for an interesting article and photos.
Hi, I don’t think so. My trip was simply a get acquainted visit because I’d never been there before. So I wasn’t able to make arrangements to get off the grid. Nuuk and a few other small towns are very accessible and comfortable. The more remote areas are incredibly beautiful – and incredibly harsh. The current focus in Greenland seems to be on establishing their own heritage and culture and building it up in their own way. In the 1960’s and 70’s I watched many “back-to-the-landers” flee the realities of life. I think a few, a very few, might adapt enough of Greenland to make it. – barry