Traditional values …

Let me introduce Biinia. Honoring the Greenlandic traditions I’m told to pronounce it Bean-nea. In English we could call him Benjamin but I try not to. The strongest traditional value throughout the country is a belief in Greenland as an independent country. Maybe not immediately, but definitely in the future. A country, free of Denmark, free of colonialism, and free of past rulers. Respect for their own language, which is based on the Inuit language, is an important part of this traditional value.

Biinia is thoroughly traditional. He believes in utilizing what the land, the sea, and the ice provide. He believes in the Inuit traditions of fishing and hunting. He believes in the individual, in family, in community. Harvesting the resources of Greenland, sharing as he can. He follows the tradition of the individual fisherman and hunter.

On this trip he’s taking me into his world. An individual fisherman and hunter in a modern world. His daily boat trip to earn his living from the sea.

He provides me with a survival suit. I’m wearing it over my base layers, wool, and expedition parka. The temperature is only in the 30s, but the windchill index is lower 20s. Add the wind of an open boat at speeds of about 30 miles per hour and it’s cold, even for a guy from Chicago!

Survival in the cold is another Greenlandic value!

Modern world …

There are no traditional Greenland kayaks in the harbor. In a land of ice and cold, these boats are a modern sign of wealth.

These modern apartments overlooking the fjord incorporate the traditional Greenlandic value of function over form. Utilitarian, nothing fancy, but they have the comforts of modern living.

Biinia’s competition has become modern. Larger fishing boats – no longer for an individual but for a crew with nets and icy holds to keep fish chilled until brought to market.

Modern tools …

Biinia’s engine is thoroughly modern. The wake of a 300 horsepower engine shows Nuuk far behind.

His boat has all the modern conveniences – GPS, radios, engine controls and monitoring . . .

. . . all the modern conveniences except for a warm cabin. Biinia is bundled up for the cold.

The fishing computer and the reel it controls show a modern Biinia.

The computer will lower the line, monitor, and adjust the height of the hooks above the fjord floor. When the readout shows fish on the line, a push of a button will bring the line and fish to the surface.

Traditional world …

The beauty of the fjord is awesome! I’m a bit overwhelmed.

Just to test your eyes, can you see the tiny homes on the fjord mountain wall? There are at least three.

The tasks of fishing may be computer controlled, but the traditional tasks must still be performed. The line with six hooks and colorful lures is dropped. The computer simply manages the line once it is in the water.

The first line of the day is monitored – watched by human eyes – until the digital readout shows fish on the line. Push a button on the computer and the line with the catch is raised.

The fish on the line are lifted out of the water, removed from the hooks, and thrown in a bucket.

Traditional work …

But Biinia can’t just watch the computer line. The computer simply allows him to do more work. He has time for a second line – a handline on a traditional old fashioned wooden reel. This simple line has five hooks, lures, and a hooked spinner for weight.

This line is dropped, fed out, and monitored by hand.

The weight and struggles of the fish tell Biinia to pull up the line hand-over-hand.

Again the fish are removed from the hooks by hand,

and thrown into the bucket.

The inevitable tangles add work – but twice the production is worth it.

Perhaps teeth are the most traditional tool of all.

More tradition …

Caribou jerky and smoked herring are my lunch! Both products of Biinia’s hunting and fishing and preparation. Eaten by hand, washed down with coffee.

Biinia tells me that there were no trees in Greenland. The early Norse settlers found a huge supply of driftwood – probably from Siberia. Kayak frames, wooden tools, and home fires all provided by the sea. Following their tradition, when Biinia spotted this beautiful log he laboriously landed the boat and brought the wood aboard. Now as it sits in front of his home he is not sure of what he’ll do with it – but is sure it will be used.

The modern again …

Perhaps Biinia has caught a dozen fish. Perhaps he’s caught none. It’s time to move the boat.

The GPS track on the left shows the track of the boat. He can tell where he has been. On the right, the light-blue specks between water and ocean bed indicate the possible presence of fish. He knows where to try next.

The traditional again …

A disappointing catch. As the cold of winter begins, cod become harder to find and catch. He’s caught perhaps 70 or 80 pounds on this trip. The lines are raised and stowed.

The fish are cleaned. Gutted …

Rinsed.

The gulls follow closely, feeding on our waste.

The hunt …

Heading home, the hunt begins. Biinia turns the boat back. He takes his rifle from its case and keeps it at the ready.

He follows a different route home. As he searches for seals, he ducks into coves, searches icebergs, and scans the fjord waters. Last week he got a large seal. Today the only seal he spotted submerged before he could get a shot.

As we head in, so do the bigger boats. Both big and small will be out again tomorrow.

Traditional and modern …

Traditional fishing now requires sophisticated boats, engines, gas. Traditional hunting requires quality rifles and ammunition. Both require cash. As we tie up, Biinia represents – and reflects on – this duality.

I’ll eat with Biinia’s family tonight. His mother will feed us and his cousins – an extended family that welcomed me and provided me with one of the finest meals of my life. Spaghetti with caribou meat sauce in the warmth of a Greenlandic home. Ice cream was served in my honor. An unforgettable meal capping an unforgettable day.