Chitina, Alaska September 3 – 5, 2016
The Warmth of Small Town Alaska
When December, January, and February lows are frequently -40 °F survival requires a special warmth. Chitina is small town Alaska with that special warmth. The paved road stops in Chitina. The 60 mile gravel road into Wrangell-St. Elias National Park starts there. Perhaps 40 families winter in Chitina. Dozens more summer residents arrive to serve the tourists. When I left September 5th they left with me.
But I got lucky. Charlie, the Chitina Hotel summer manager and executive chef took a liking to me and gave me entry into the spirit of the town. “Tonight there’s an all-you-can-eat spaghetti dinner for a $10 donation to the emergency service team you might like. Tomorrow evening is the Labor Day pig roast pot luck dinner. There’s a memorial for one of our elders, died last month, at Uncle Tom’s Bar tomorrow night. Come if you want.”
First, let’s start with a walk around town. We can walk this sidewalk in about 5 minutes, covering the entire town.
My hotel is first – note the dog on the front porch waiting while his owner drinks at the hotel bar. (They had a great Alaskan APA on draft!) The hotel closed for the season the day I left. Most of the staff moved on to jobs in other places where the tourist places stayed open year ’round.
I never figured out how Spirit Mountain stayed open – but it was still open when I left town.
Obviously the Emporium hasn’t been open for years.
This food truck did a pretty good business.
One family’s year-round home.
And if you walked down the gravel road beside the home you could see the smoker cooking that pig for our evening celebration.
You’ll see more of Uncle Tom’s in a bit. For now, I’ll note it’s a year ’round business. No food.
Another home.
The AT&T telecommunications center. WiFi but no cell phone service.
And the already closed for the season guide business. You’ve been downtown now.
Ooops! Somehow I missed the Hotel Chitina’s beer garden which hosted the spaghetti fund raiser.
We ate with reminders of the services the team offered.
Charlie serves me my Alaskan APA – a small extra charge for a very good beer!
And of course we listened to speeches.
The next day dawned rainy, but that didn’t stop the exhibit of the garden produce grown during the three month frost-free growing season!
Now for the main event. The pig is ready!
Move him off the smoker.
Stabilize the table – we’d hate to lose him now!
The butcher works his magic with gusto,
As the kids play.
And we’re ready.
Tom – his bar sponsored the event – taste tests the meat.
HUGE servings are dished out – even to me!
The pig was cooked dry. We added a mustard-based, secret recipe BBQ sauce to our own taste. It made for a great meal.
Filling the plates,
Two table of side dishes.
The kids hit the dessert table immediately!
Even the butcher got his serving.
Not a lot of talking during the first few minutes.
You can see their priority …
And theirs.
But soon people started talking and I discussed the merits of North Carolina vs. Alaskan BBQ with many of them. A great way to break the ice with a bunch of nice people.
Then, as evening began, we walked across the street to the bar.
The entrance hall to the bar!
Tom – the bar owner – shot the bear and proudly displayed the skin on pool table.
Mary ran the bar with a practiced hand.
Steve delivered the eulogy for his grandfather.
And Mary kept the drinks flowing.
On my way back to the hotel, Doug said let’s have a drink.
And so I finished my day back at the hotel bar …
Next – Wrangell – St Elias